A lot of the folks who read this blog are fellow travelers
or animal lovers or potential traveling animal lovers. After living with three
cats, two dogs, a rabbit, and a goat in less than 200 sq. ft. for four years I
can tell you there are some tried and true solutions that making being mobile
with your pet easier.
This post isn’t in any particular order but these are products
I use daily. I will insert a link to a page where this product is sold. I am a participant
in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program
designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and
affiliated sites.
Water Hole - The Water Hole is a water dish for a dog or cat that won’t
spill when kicked, tipped, or flipped, or while driving. We own two; one on the
floor for the dogs and one on a table for the cats. This method helps prevent
potential scuffles from a cat hogging the water bowl. I like to keep mine about
halfway filled (just to the level of the inner lip) because then it won’t spill
even if it goes completely upside down.
That being said, I have to refill it once or twice a day because it
doesn’t hold a ton of water. The lid removes for easy cleaning, and you never
have to stow it away while driving. We have broken a couple of them by
accidentally stepping into the middle of the top while in the dark, but other
than that they have held up well.
Lupine Pet Leash - This
company creates beautifully patterned, high-quality leashes. The handle is
padded, and the clip is easily attached by just pushing it onto to collar’s
D-ring. They come in four-foot and six-foot lengths and a variety of widths,
colors, and patterns. This company also makes collars and harnesses. The best
quality of a Lupine Pet product is the guarantee! They are guaranteed “Even
When Chewed,” with no receipt! Just take the chewed up leash or collar to any
store that sells them, hand it over to the clerk and pick out a new one. Or
mail your chewed leash to the company and they will ship you a new one. I’ve
owned Lupine Pet leashes for eight years now and have had to replace at least
three due to chewing. The warranty is for real and makes the cost of the leash
totally worth it.
Holt Headcollar - You’ve
probably heard of the Gentle Leader brand headcollar. If you’ve never heard of
a headcollar and you own a dog that pulls, you’re in luck. It serves the same
purpose as a bridle on a horse; it controls the dog’s head. When the dog walks
too far ahead, it gently pulls their face around back to you, and they can’t
pull. My dogs would yank my arms out of socket before I bought these, and now I
can walk them together using only one finger. I prefer this Holt brand over
Gentle Leader because not only is it cheaper, it doesn’t have to be as tight as
the Gentle Leader due to extra straps that rearrange the pressure points to the
sides of the dog’s jaw instead of right over the windpipe. Your dog can still
pant, drink, and eat with this collar, although it does make strangers assume
that your dog is wearing a muzzle. I kind of like that because then they don’t
bring their dog near my dog.
PetSafe Wireless Pet Containment Fence - This is a box that transmits a signal to a
rainproof electric collar. If the pet gets too far away from the box it will
set off the electric collar, similar to an underground fence. Most houses place
this unit on the porch or in the garage, then adjust the range my turning the
dial on the box. It can cover up to ¾ of an acre and can be used on dogs or
cats. You can add extra collars to the system and you can add extra boxes to
increase the range. I plug an extension cord into my generator or router and
then place the box in the middle of my campsite. Then I can adjust the range to
fit the campsite. Every time I set up at a new campsite, I set the boundaries
by walking around with the collar to hear where it starts to beep and base the
range on that. Then I put it on the dog and walk around the boundary circle.
She learns quickly exactly how far she can go. Even with a high prey drive dog
this system keeps her contained when a squirrel or rabbit runs right past the
boundary line. I find that the batteries
(disposable special twist on batteries) last longer if removed from the collar
when the box is not turned on. A
consideration for RVs with metal sides; my school bus is made of metal so the
dog cannot come inside with the collar on or it will interrupt the signal and
shock her. I remove the collar before letting her in the bus. With a regular
wood and fiberglass RV it shouldn’t be an issue.
Vittles Vault Gamma Seal Lid Storage Bins or Gamma Seal Lid for 5-gallon bucket - I first
discovered these bins when I worked as a kennel attendant at a dog training
facility. They are sturdy plastic bins with a spin-on lid that has a gasket.
They are advertised as air-tight and rodent- and ant-proof, but some reviews
say otherwise. I’ve always used mine inside, although the ones at the dog
kennel were never invaded by ants or mice that may have lived in the shed. A
40-lb bag of dog food or 50-lb bag of goat food fits easily in the medium
version, and they have sizes from 5-80 lbs and in various configurations so you
can stack them. They also sell the Gamma Seal lids individually for much
cheaper and they fit on any standard 5-gallon bucket. I use the 5-gallon bucket
version for the cat and rabbit food, and it holds up to 25 lb bags of food.
Furminator - This
is the most effective brush. I’ve had it for eight years and it is still going
strong. The Furminator is like a blade with teeth, but it’s not sharp enough to
cut you. It gets down into the undercoat. When I brush Piper (medium length
black hair with a grey undercoat) I usually remove a grocery bag size amount of
hair! Juno has speckled blue merle hair (some hairs soft and black and some
hairs white and course) and the Furminator only removes the black hairs for
some reason, so it may not be the best for every dog hair type. It works really
well on the goat and cats, too, and it actually helps me harvest the goat’s
cashmere undercoat every spring! It makes her feel better, too.
Zoom Groom - This
is a rubber brush that has knobby fingers. It’s great for loosening up shedding
hair before using the Furminator, or for rubbing shampoo into your dog’s coat
during a bath. It saves my fingers from getting raw during multiple bath times,
and really gets down to the skin to remove dirt. The dogs and goat love for me
to use it anytime because it gives them a relaxing massage.
Storage Tote Cat Litter Box - One major problem that traveling cat owners face is the
litter box. It smells, you’re in a super small space, and that cat litter gets
EVERYWHERE. Also the dog gets her head in there and has tasty kitty poo snacks.
Here’s a simple solution I’ve been using for four years. Get a large plastic
storage bin that is tall enough for your kitty to comfortable stand up inside.
Cut a cat-door sized hole in the lid. Pour litter directly into the tote. No
matter how much your cat kicks litter or sprays in the wrong direction, it won’t
spill. When the cat climbs up out of the litter box, the stray litter ends up
on top of the box. Open the lid for cleaning and the stray litter goes right
back in the box. It holds the smell in, and prevents a dog from reaching the
litter. If you have a cat that is sensitive or allergic to litter dust, this
may not be a good solution for you. Maybe then you could use another type of
litter. We use this system and have the one tote for three cats to share.
Cardboard Cat Scratcher or Rope Cat Scratcher - Scratching is an important part of cat care. They naturally
scratch to shed old claw outsides and sharpen newly formed material underneath.
Even if you trim you cat’s nails (and especially if you don’t) you should have
a scratching pad or post so that your cat doesn’t use your couch or curtains to
curb their instincts. A cardboard scratcher is cheap and lasts a long time, and
usually comes with catnip to attract your cat. A rope scratcher lasts nearly
forever, but is hard to clean. If you have room, install a cat tower or perch
with a scratching post for your cat to hang out and have its own private area.
Antler Chews - Dental
health is important for dogs, and if you don’t brush your dog’s teeth regularly
they probably need something hard to chew to remove tartar buildup. Rawhide
bones are dangerous and don’t last very long. Dog treat bones are soaked in
weird stuff that always made my dogs puke, and they also never lasted more than
a day of chewing. Antlers last a long time and are easily digestible. Generally
harvested from naturally shed deer, elk, or moose antlers, they are also
sustainable. They’re a bit pricey, but each antler generally lasts anywhere
from 3-6 months with daily chewing for my dogs. It also cleaned my dogs’ teeth
better than the $200 dental cleaning Juno had last year.
Little City Dogs Parasite Control - This
is a home based company that makes and sells products for parasite control.
They take the same main ingredients used in products of popular companies and
form their own product for about half the price. Check out their website, which
explains what each of the main ingredients does. I’ve used this company for
about six or seven years and have always been satisfied. They provide instant
flea killing products, monthly flea control products, monthly heartworm
control, tapeworm control, regular dewormer, and diatomaceous earth. One
caution, though; use the heartworm dosage calculator to dose Ivermectin, and not
the dosage printed on the bottle. My 50 lb. dog gets .28mL and the dosage on
the bottle recommends 1.0mL which is
twice the recommended MAX dosage. I did all the math by hand too and asked my
vet and he confirmed that their dosage calculator is accurate, not the bottle.
Diatomaceous Earth - This is a flour-like powder made of ancient seashells that
kills any bug with an exoskeleton. It works by slicing up the exoskeleton which
makes the bugs die of dehydration. You can get it cheap at a farm supply store
when it’s mixed with bentonite, but it works even better if it’s the pure white
food grade stuff. Food grade means you can literally add it to your own or your
pet’s food. Some folks claim it helps with parasites when taken internally, but
there’s no real proof of that. What it’s best at is killing bugs outside the
body. You can dust it on your dog (just don’t let them breathe the dust or it
might hurt their lungs) or on your floor or countertops or all the way around
your RV or home to prevent ants, roaches, fleas or any other bugs. Once the
bugs realize it’s there, they’ll literally walk around it to avoid the stuff. A
ten pound bag lasts me for a year of frequent use. It continues working forever
as long as it isn’t washed or blown away.
Seresto Flea and Tick Collar for Dogs and Cats - Another effective pest control method that I like is the Seresto collar. It comes in a few sizes for dogs and cats, and kills and prevents fleas and ticks. It's waterproof, bathproof, and lasts eight months. It also comes with safety reflectors that you can choose to attach to the collar. Occasionally Seresto's manufacturer offers a $20 rebate, so make sure to do a quick search to see if that's available.
Millers Forge Dog Nail Clippers - These nail clippers are very sharp and heavy duty. They
easily cut through thick, large dog toenails. They also make it easier to cut
small slivers of nail at a time so you don’t cut the quick. The red handled
version is more highly recommended than the orange handled version.
Dog Toenail Scratch Board - Glue a sheet of 80 grit sandpaper to the back of a clipboard and train your dog to scratch it. You can hold it at different angles to reach the inner or outer toenails, or glue the sandpaper inside half of a 3" PVC pipe (cut longways) for a more convenient shape to reach all the toenails on one paw at once. This easy DIY tool has really helped improve my dogs' toenails as I'm training them to be more comfortable with having their nails trimmed.
Do you have any traveling pet products that you can’t live
without? Let me know! I’m always on the lookout for more helpful products.